The producer's instrument.
The MPD26 is a MIDI-over-USB pad controller with genuine MPC pads. It's perfect for producers, programmers, musicians and DJs. Its blend of intuitive MPC controls and technologies meshes with easy USB connectivity to bring the feel of classic beat making to the world of computer music production.
The heart of the MPD26 is its bank of 16 velocity and pressure-sensitive MPC pads, an Akai Professional exclusive. You can access four different sounds from each MPC pad for a total of 64 at your fingertips. The MPD26 also features the MPC series' assignable Q-Link controllers, enabling you to control nearly any parameters in your software in real time. You get six assignable Q-Link faders and six assignable Q-Link 360° knobs so you'll spend less time with the mouse and more time making music. The MPD26 also gives you a dedicated set of transport controls for instant access to the most commonly used DAW or sequencing-software controls.
While the MPC pads and Q-Links might be the heart of the MPD26, its brain is transplanted directly from the MPC. That's because the MPD26 is not just a control surface; it contains some of the key MPC technologies that have made the MPC the de facto standard it is. MPC Note Repeat is a capability that enables the MPD (or MPC) to automatically play a rhythm pattern, such as 16th notes on a hi-hat, for accuracy and speed of entry. MPC Swing is sometimes referred to as "the heart and soul of hip hop" because it turns perfectly aligned sequences into human-feeling performances. You can specify exactly the degree and timing of swing you want to apply for the perfect feel. The MPD26 also has MPC Full Level and MPC 16-Level on its pads.
The MPD26 sends MIDI information over its plug-and-play USB interface so you can use it with your Mac or PC without installing any drivers. The USB connection even powers the MPD26 so the included USB cable is all you need. The MPD26 also has traditional DIN MIDI input and output jacks so you can use it with MIDI hardware such as synths and other sound modules. The MPD26 comes with Ableton Live Lite so you can start creating right out of the box.
The MPD26 is the perfect interface between your creativity and the computer-based studio. Its blend of intuitive MPC controls and technologies meshes with easy USB computer connectivity to deliver the control instrument you need.
- 16 velocity- and pressure-sensitive MPC pads
- 4 pad banks for instant access to 64 samples total
- 6 assignable faders, 6 assignable Q-Link knobs
- Classic MPC Note Repeat, MPC Swing, 16 Level, Full Level, and Tap Tempo
- Class-compliant, USB-powered, no drivers or power adapter required
- 16 factory DAW presets, 13 user-assignable DAW presets
- Works with virtually any MIDI software or MIDI hardware
- Ableton Live Lite Akai Pro Edition included
- Large backlit custom LCD screen
- Dedicated transport controls
- 16 pressure and velocity sensitive
- 6 - MIDI Control Change data faders
- 6, 360-degree pots
- blue, backlit
- Rew, FF, Stop, Play, Rec
- MMC / MIDI Machine Control or MIDI
- USB, MIDI In, MIDI Out
- USB bus powered
- MP6-1 AC adapter for DIN MIDI, sold separately
Downloads & Documents
- MPD26 - Quickstart Guide (5.74 MB)
- MPD26 - Reference Manual (1.45 MB)
- MPD26 - Factory Preset Documentation (1.89 MB)
- MPD26 - Setup with Ableton Live (479.38 kB)
- MPD26 - Setup with Logic Pro (135.76 kB)
- MPD26 - MIDI Mapping in Logic (229.29 kB)
- MPD26 - Setup with Fruity Loops (240.25 kB)
- MPD26 - Transport Control MIDI Details (58.17 kB)
- MPD26 - MIDI IO Details (58.87 kB)
- MPD26 - Vyzex Editor v1.00 (Mac & Windows) (29.67 MB)
- MPD26 - Reason Remote Files (217.45 kB)
- MPD26 - Media Images (3.31 MB)
- Guitars and Bass
- Drums & Percussion
BY Phil Clendeninn
Tagged under:, montage super knob common, exploring performance architecture..
Join us as we continue our series with a look at the MONTAGE Super Knob Common and Performance architecture.
PERFORMANCE 1: Super Knob Common
Let’s begin our look at the Super Knob with a basic assignment on the uppermost level of the Performance architecture – one that could affect all Parts in common, no matter how many Parts were added under Keyboard Control.
We’ll use a single PART Performance here to keep things simple. But if additional PARTS were added to this Performance, they too would also be able to avail themselves of these COMMON level settings.
(Note: The Live Set used in these tutorials can be downloaded here .)
Example #1: “Super Knob Common”
New Terms and Concepts: The Super Knob automatically controls the eight Performance Common Assign Knobs 1-8. No special assignment needs to be made to have these upper level functions respond to the Super Knob. What they do exactly, as we will see, depends on the deep levels of programming:
- The Super Knob sends minimum value (0) when fully counterclockwise (at 7 o’clock) thru to maximum (127) when fully clockwise (at 5 o’clock).
- Polarity – Uni (Unipolar) describes a parameter that moves in just one direction, as in a minimum value moving toward a maximum value, or one that is going from a maximum toward a minimum. Minimum-to-Maximum is the polarity that is used in the first example.
- Ratio Applying a positive ratio will increase the parameter value, while applying a negative one will decrease the parameter value. Ratio is a comparison between two items. In this case it represents the depth of application, and how it changes.
- Curve Type is a parameter that provides deeper control over the application of modulation. In the first examples, we’ll limit ourselves to the “Standard” Curve Type — something that is very easy to hear and understand.
This is a very simple Super Knob programming example using just two Common Effect parameters. Like earlier Motif-series synths, the MONTAGE has “shared” Send/Return type Effects (called “System Effects”) and each PART has access to them. Shared Effects are considered among the COMMON parameter settings because they are available to all PARTS via an AUXILIARY-type Send/Return scenario as you would find on any professional mixing console.
There are two SYSTEM EFFECT processors. One is called “Reverb” and provides the overall acoustics of the virtual room for your instrument ensemble; and the other is called the “Variation,” which provides time delay and other effects types you might want to apply to several music parts. In this example, the Variation Effect is assigned to a Chorus type called “2 Modulator” (a dual chorus effect that was extremely popular back in the 1970s-80s). Any PART with the Variation (VAR SEND) amount turned up will be sent to this dual chorus effect and therefore the changes assigned here would be applied to all the Parts using the Variation Effect in common.
The Variation Effect parameters LFO Speed and PM Depth are assigned to Assignable Knobs 1 and 2, respectively. The assignments are done on the “Edit – Common/Audio” > Controller Assign screen. The very top line in the screen will always identify exactly where you are: “Edit – Common/Audio”. Let’s navigate there using the front panel buttons:
- Go to the main HOME screen by touching the “Home” icon in the extreme upper left corner of the screen or pressing the dedicated [PERFORMANCE (HOME)] button
- Whenever you are on the HOME screen, the PERFORMANCE NAME is highlighted – in this case, “Super Knob Common”
- Press [EDIT]
- Press the [COMMON] button (right side; the upper [COMMON] button). You’ll arrive at the “Edit – Common/Audio” edit screen
- In the screen select “Control” (the left column in the screen)
- In the second column select “Control Assign.” Make sure the AUTO SELECT option is active (green). This allows you to touch/turn/move a controller to immediately access its parameters in the screen
- Move ASSIGN KNOB 1 to immediately view its assignment (Vari LfoSpd) “Variation Low Frequency Oscillator Speed”
- Move ASSIGN KNOB 2 to view its assignment (Vari PmDpth) Variation Pitch Modulation Depth
The Polarity setting in each is Uni (Unipolar). You can see that one has a Curve showing increase (a positive value) while the other has a Curve applying a decrease (a negative value). This means that the leftmost position of the Super Knob corresponds to the parameter value settings of the Effect window, which are:
- LFO Speed = 0.21Hz
- PM Depth = 80
Note that the parameter value is not 0; rather, it starts at the value as set, and is offset by the Super Knob.
To view the Variation Effect, touch “EFFECT” in the left column and “VARIATION” in the second column. As you can see, when the Super Knob is at minimum (fully counterclockwise), the LFO Speed is 0.21Hz and the PM Depth is 80
Listen while moving the Super Knob to the right. This increases the LFO Speed (Ratio is +22; the positive value indicates how steep the change is) and decreases the PM Depth (Ratio -19; the negative value indicates how steep the decline is). The LFO Speed starts at 0.21Hz and will increase from there. While the PM Depth starts at a setting of 80, the -19 (negative value) setting ensures it will be decreased from there. The Ratio determines what happens (direction and depth of application) to that parameter as the Super Knob is moved from minimum (0) toward maximum (127).
Because the Common Assign Knobs are routed automatically to the Super Knob, only the two assignments for Knob 1 + 2 are needed here.
Experiment with different values for both the Ratio values and the initial LFO Speed/PM Depth values to gain an understanding of what you are changing and how they interact.
Param 1 (Parameter 1) – experiment with this and observe how it changes the incline of the application of the control. It alters the shape of the Curve! So turning the Super Knob does not have to be a straight line increase or decrease (not at all); in fact, you can customize this “curve type” by an astounding degree. More “Parameters” will be added according the Curve Type selection – more on that in a future article. For now, let’s just stick to the Standard Curve.
Important Hint: If LFO Speed is initially set to 0.0Hz, you will hear no modulation when the Super Knob is set to 0. By having an initial setting of 0.21Hz, there is a slight movement to the sound right away. This, of course, is a programming preference. Often you want a certain amount of movement to start, and then have the controller adjust that amount. Controlling the range of application is a programmer’s choice.
Try this: Highlight and adjust the LFO Speed parameter directly to hear its adjustment to the speed of modulation from a minimum of 0.0Hz to a maximum of 39.7Hz. You can do so by highlighting the parameter directly in the Variation Effect screen (shown above) and use the Data Dial to change the actual setting value. The initial setting of 0.21Hz is approximately one cycle every 5 seconds — as you approach 20 times a second, you will notice that the speed of modulation/movement itself is creating a low frequency pitch of its own; it practically becomes a buzzer, and at the maximum of 39.7Hz, the LFO is an audible oscillator. In other words, the LFO crosses over from being a low frequency “rate” into being an audible pitch.
Next, try applying higher frequency LFO Speedsat different PM Depth settings. Notice that if PM Depth is 0, naturally, you hear no modulation, no matter what the speed.
Here’s a theoretical situation where this programming would be used: You want to increase the LFO Speed but not have it go into the bizarre (pitch) range that happens as you approach maximum speed. So you want to increase the Speed but decrease the Depth, simultaneously. (This is a job for either two hands, or the Super Knob!)
This is just one of many different scenarios for assigning items to the Super Knob: One gesture accomplishes multiple things.
Summary: Here we have learned that COMMON Assign Knobs 1-8 are automatically assigned to be controlled by the Super Knob. The significance of this will become more clear when we begin to program the PART 1-8 Assign Knobs 1-8, where you can assign a PART parameter to an Assignable Knob and then link the Part’s Knob to the Super Knob.
Depending on your front panel EDIT selection (COMMON or PART 1-8), the Assign Knobs 1-8 take on different roles. If you envision a full front panel, where every Knob is a separate entity, you would have eight Assign Knobs for the COMMON edit parameters, eight Assign Knobs for PART 1 edit parameters, another eight Assign Knobs for PART 2 edit parameters, another eight Assign Knobs for PART 3 edit parameters, and so on. That would be a total of 72 physical Assignable Knobs in a Keyboard Controlled Performance.
Now the reason for the Super Knob comes into focus. You would probably never need to assign this many controls to a single playable sound – it would be difficult for your ear/brain to take in what was happening. But if you think of the eight Parts of a Keyboard Controlled Performance program as one big modular synth that has 64 Oscillators, 64 Filters, 64 Filter EGs, 64 Amplifiers, 64 Amplitude EGs, etc., you begin to understand the scale and scope of the controller matrix on tap here with MONTAGE. The word “massive” is not hype.
Each PART can have 16 assignable Destination (parameters) for the various controllers: Assignable Switches 1/2, Ribbon, Mod Wheel, PB Wheel, Foot Controllers, Aftertouch, and more. You can choose to use the Assignable Knobs directly or linked to the Super Knob. You can assign functions to multiple controller or spread them out as you desire. As we go deeper into the Motion Control Synthesis Engine we will explore these possibilities and pick up some tips on how to navigate and view exactly what’s going on. We highly recommend you take your time and unfold this a layer at a time.
In the example above, we see that the Super Knob can control multiple parameters simultaneously to achieve a specific result — in this case, the Chorus LFO speed is increased, at the same time its Depth is reduced. By adjusting the CURVE you can fine tune this dual action with a single controller gesture.
Extra Credit: Using the Navigation Shortcuts
- Call up the PERFORMANCE “Super Knob Common” and press the HOME icon
- Press [SHIFT] + [INFO] (HOME) buttons to jump to the Motion Control OVERVIEW screen
Here you can view the Controller Wheels/Ribbon, Assignable Knobs/Buttons, Fader and Super Knob assignments. Touch each of those words directly in the screen to toggle its connections on and off. Shown are the “Assignable” Knobs (green) and the “Super Knob” (blue). Turned off in the viewer are the “Controller” and “Fader.” You can see how the two knobs and the Super Knob are linked to COMMON.
Tip: In the “Part” box the word “COMMON” appears. Change this using the [INC/YES] button or the DATA DIAL. You can select any of the numbered Parts 1-16 (Assignable Knob parameters are available for PART 1-8). Notice how changing the value from “COMMON” to “PART 1”, “PART 2”, etc., actually changes the lighted front panel buttons on your right front panel. Selecting Parts — even selecting “COMMON” — can be done in the screen or by pressing an available corresponding button. Begin to make sense out of the lighted buttons — they always tell a story about what’s going on in your screen!
Return the item to “COMMON” on the OVERVIEW screen.
The box next to the PART > COMMON is a direct shortcut to the Controller Setting screen of the currently selected Part (“EDIT COMMON CONTROL SETTINGS”):
- Touch “Edit Common Control Settings” to go to the Common Edit Control screen
- This shortcut from the Controller Assignment takes you directly to the controlled parameter
Power Tip: Once you arrive on the Controller Settings screen, you can view the 16 assigned Source/Destination functions of any Part, or the “Common/Audio” level, four at a time, by highlighting the DISPLAY FILTER box and selecting “ALL” (as shown in the screenshot below).
Use the PAGE function to view up to 16 Destinations per programming level. MONTAGE will keep track of the number of assignments per Part and for the Common/Audio level of editing. The “+” sign in a Destination box allows you to ADD a new Source/Destination parameter assignment. The “DELETE” box in the lower right corner removes the selected Source /Destination assignment.
If [AUTO SELECT] is green, you can move a controller to see what is assigned to it or you can move the cursor to the DISPLAY FILTER box and use the Data Dial to view the available options:
This Display Filter allows you to view (not alter) assignments made to a specific controller; when you change the Display Filter you are changing what you are viewing. It is a Display *Filter* because it is allowing you to see just what is assigned to the various Control Source options:
- Assign Knobs 1-8.
- Motion Sequence Lanes 1-4.
- Envelope Follower Parts 1-16, AD, and Master.
In this first programming example, we saw that the Super Knob is linked to COMMON and that COMMON is assigned to vary two Destination parameters. The Destination 1 box is assigned to control the Var LfoSpd. The box with a “+” sign will allow you to ADD a control routing (called a Destination). The “DELETE” box in the lower right corner will allow you to undo a Destination. There can be 16 Destinations (assignments) per PART.
Destination 2 in our example assigns Assignable Knob 2 to Var PmDpth. At this upper COMMON/Audio level of the architecture this includes the following PARAMETER DESTINATION:
- INSERT B (when assigned to the A/D INPUT)
The significance here is that you can control, in real time, the Insertion Effects that are assigned to the A/D INPUT Part. Each MONTAGE PART (including the A/D Input) has its own dedicated dual Insertion Effect processor – which can be automated by the Motion Control Synthesis Engine. A Microphone can use a pair of Insert Effects (a Delay LCR and something else) and you can, for example, control the Dry/Wet Balance and number of repeats (Feedback level) by assigning control to one or more of the available COMMON Assignable Knobs:
- INSERT A (when assigned to the A/D INPUT)
- REVERB (System Effect)
- A/D INPUT Parameters
The significance here is that, at the top COMMON level, all eight Parts can be influenced (or not), depending on how much signal you send into the shared System Effect processors. In other words, every PART has a SEND amount into the Reverb and Variation processors, and you can determine how much per Part. Effect parameters for the chosen Effect TYPE will be available as assignable Destinations. We saw this in the first example, where we were controlling parameters within the 2 Modulator Chorus TYPE:
Here you can control the VOLUME, as well as the SEND amounts to the Reverb and Variation SYSTEM EFFECTS for the A/D INPUT Part. This gives you full automation of audio signal coming into MONTAGE — which could be anything you place in front of a microphone, or another keyboard, or other playback source:
- MASTER EFFECT
The significance here is that you can automate control over the Master Effects – making it a PART of the Motion Control situation:
- PART 1 – AS1 through AS8
- PART 2 – AS1 through AS8
- PART 3 – AS1 through AS8
- PART 4 – AS1 through AS8
- PART 5 – AS1 through AS8
- PART 6 – AS1 through AS8
- PART 7 – AS1 through AS8
- PART 8 – AS1 through AS8
It is very important to understand these assignments. They allow the Super Knob to control specific items within each separate PART. As we stated at the beginning of this tutorial, the Super Knob automatically controls the eight COMMON Assignable Knobs 1-8 and it works directly on those upper level/shared parameters. Notice that listed here is each of the eight Keyboard Controlled PARTS, as well as each of their eight Knobs. This means that, with an assignment selection here, you are linking the individual PART’s control of a Destination parameter to the movement of the Super Knob.
In our next lesson, we will see how this intermediate step opens the door to a wide, wide world of synth patching. We will drop down a level to the individual Part and the parameters that only affect a single Part within a Performance. We will assign PART 1’s Assignable Knob 1 so that it follows the movement of Super Knob and yet controls a parameter exclusively (locally) within just one Part, PART 1. The selection of potential Destinations will change and will include parameters specific to this particular PART as an individual component within the PERFORMANCE.
Catch up on the previous article in the series: “Mastering MONTAGE 1: The Super Knob” here .
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Cabinet hardware placement: where to put knobs and handles.
By Jessica Earley April 29, 2022
Whether you’re looking for a quick kitchen refresh or you’re putting the final touches on a kitchen renovation, adding new cabinet hardware is an excellent way to elevate your kitchen’s style.
A well-placed cabinet handle is equal parts practical and aesthetically pleasing. On the other hand, poor cabinet hardware placement can leave your kitchen less functional and slightly off-kilter.
Using infographics and pictures of kitchen cabinet knob placement, we’ve outlined everything you need to know about where to put knobs and handles on your kitchen cabinets. You’ll never have to worry about cabinet handle placement again!
Types of Cabinet Handles & Hardware
There are two basic types of hardware you can install to help you open your kitchen cabinets and drawers–knobs and pulls.
Knobs are one of the oldest, most popular, and widespread kitchen cabinet hardware options available. Traditionally, they were made of metal and were round. But today you can find them in a variety of shapes and materials to match nearly any style or design.
One of the best things about using knobs is that you only have to drill one hole to install them. This is great if you’re not ready to commit to drilling multiple holes in your beautiful cabinets to install a pull.
If you’re looking for hardware that is a little more modern and is extremely easy to grasp, pulls may be the best option for you! Pulls offer more leverage for opening heavy kitchen drawers and require less dexterity to use them (which is helpful if your family members are older or have a disability.)
Using pulls requires a little bit more planning than installing knobs. Pulls need more than one hole and you have to pay more attention to the size of your drawers and cabinets to make sure the pulls you choose won’t be too big.
Standard pulls are the most common type of pull and have the same basic construction. These pulls can be completely straight or have embellished curves or angles for decoration.
These kinds of pulls are shaped like cups. You use them by sliding your fingers up and underneath the cup to grasp it and pull. Cup pulls are timeless and match a variety of interior design styles.
While both knobs and other types of pulls are installed by drilling holes all the way through the cabinet or drawer, finger pulls are mounted to the top or bottom of the drawer with only the front lip exposed as the pull.
Where to Put Knobs and Handles on Kitchen Cabinets
Now that you know a little bit about the basics of kitchen cabinet hardware, we will guide you through where to put all the knobs and pulls on each kitchen and cabinet drawer. When you’re done, you’ll know exactly how to install your knobs and pulls for a cohesive and functional kitchen!
Smaller drawers that are less than 24 inches wide should only have one knob, which is usually centered both horizontally and vertically on the face of the drawer.
For drawers that are larger than 24 inches, you likely will need two knobs to get the right leverage to pull it open. To place two knobs on a drawer, simply divide your drawer into thirds and place your knobs in the vertical center of the left and right thirds.
If you have a drawer that is any different than a panel drawer, you want to place your knobs a little differently. You may find it better for your needs to only center your knob horizontally on the top rail instead of in the middle of the panel. If you have a drawer larger than 24 inches, divide the top rail into thirds and place the knobs in the left and right thirds.
Have a deep, lower drawer for storing pots and pans? A knob right in the center of the lower drawer might make it harder to pull open and require you to bend over more. Instead, you can install knobs centered in the top third of the drawer.
Pulls are installed horizontally on drawers and follow all of the same rules for installing knobs on drawers. For small drawers under 24 inches, center your pull in the middle of the drawer face, on the upper third of the drawer, or on the top rail.
Pro-tip: With pulls, it’s important to also be very conscious of the width of your pull in relation to the width of your drawer. Most drawers will look balanced and be easy to open if the pull is ⅓ as long as the drawer it’s being installed on. Here are some examples.
Small drawers that are less than 12 inches wide should have a pull that is between 3 and 4 inches long.
Medium drawers that are 12 to 24 inches wide work best with a pull that is 4 to 8 inches long.
Large drawers that are more than 24 inches wide should have pull that’s at least 8 inches long or longer. Alternatively, you may opt to install two smaller pulls on a drawer wider than 24 inches using the same rules as installing two knobs.
Pro-tip: Generally, you will want to place all your knobs or pulls in the middle of each drawer. But when you step back, the change in perspective may cause the hardware to actually look uneven.
For a more balanced look, start with the bottom drawer and move your knob or pull up half an inch from the center. On the next drawer, place it ¼ inch higher. And finally, on the third drawer and most top drawer, place it exactly in the center.
Because cup pulls are best used by sliding your fingers in and pulling from underneath, you will only find cup pulls on lower kitchen drawers. This keeps you from having to awkwardly twist your hand and wrist to access them from the above or on the side of cabinet doors.
Typically, cup pulls should be installed in the top third of the cabinet door or on the top rail. Center them vertically just like you would with standard pulls. Don’t be afraid to adjust the placement slightly to what feels natural and comfortable for you.
Since finger pulls are always installed on the edges of cabinets or drawers, you have a little less variation in placement to play with. They are easiest to use when placed in the center of the top edge of your drawer.
On drawers wider than 24 inches, you may want to use two finger pulls instead. Place them on the right and left thirds at the top of the drawer.
On both base and wall cabinets, knobs and pulls should be installed opposite the hinges to allow you to swing the doors open.
In general, knobs should be placed 2 ½ to 3 inches from the edge of the upper right corner of base cabinets. It’s important to keep base cabinet knobs on the upper corner or style of base cabinet so you don’t have to bend down much to open your cabinets.
Traditional pulls are installed vertically and typically follow the same 2 ½ to 3 inch installation rule as knobs. For base cabinets, the top screw of your pull will be placed between 2 ½ and 3 inches from the top corner of the cabinet (opposite the hinges) and the bottom screw will be placed at the other end of the pull.
Pro-Tip: Pulls should be installed on the stiles of the doors. If your pull starts to fall on the rails or panel, you may need to adjust your placement before installing. Make sure to measure for both holes before you start drilling into your cabinets. This applies to wall cabinets too.
The placement of finger pulls on base cabinets is all about the corner! They should be flush with the upper corner on base cabinets opposite the hinges. Make sure that only the front edge of the pull is visible. From a distance, the pulls on doors next to each other that open opposite directors will look like one clean line, establishing a more streamlined look.
Similar to base cabinets, knobs are best installed 2 ½ to 3 inches from the corner of the door but on the bottom of the door instead of the top. This ensures that you don’t have to don’t have to reach too high to open your cabinet doors.
Pro-Tip: Your placement of knobs on both base and wall cabinets may differ slightly based on whether your cabinet is constructed with the cope and stick method (Shaker style) or the mitered method (traditional recessed door). Cope and stick cabinets have stiles and rails that meet at 90-degree angle while mitered stiles and rails meet at a 45-degree angle, creating a diagonal seam all the way to the edge of the corner. Learn more about the differences in our cabinet door style guide .
On your cope and stick cabinets, the 2 ½ to 3-inch rule works well because you can unusually still install the knob on a single stile. (Unless you have skinny Shaker cabinets , which will likely require that the knob be installed on the recessed panel instead.)
With mitered cabinets, you will need to be careful not to drill a hole on the diagonal seam of your cabinets, which could cause them to splinter or separate.
Start by placing the first screw on the bottom corner of your wall cabinets opposite the hinges, about 2 ½ to 3 inches from the bottom. Your other screw should be placed at the other end of the pull.
Finger pulls should sit flush with the bottom corner of your cabinet at the opposite the hinges. Just the front edge should be visible.
Other cabinet questions? Hire a Vevano Home Designer!
Whether you’re looking for simple hardware upgrades to your kitchen cabinets or are looking to do a complete cabinet overhaul, our Vevano Home designers can help. Schedule a free consultation today!
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How to Select Cabinet Knobs and Pulls
Emily Estep is a plant biologist and journalist who has worked for a variety of online news and media outlets, writing about and editing topics including environmental science and houseplants.
The Spruce / Ana Cadena
Function and beauty are good reasons to love knobs. Kitchens get messy daily, and preventing that mess from ending up on your cabinet surface is important for its longevity. Knobs and pulls help to protect your cabinet finish, because you are not transferring the oils on your fingers to the cabinet fronts.
You also need them to open your doors and drawers if you have a frameless or full-overlay cabinet, since your fingers won't fit in the reveals of the cabinet for operation.
They are available in a plethora of styles and finishes that can enhance the design of your kitchen. So how do you make your selection? If you are remodeling or building new, choose hardware last. After you have all of your materials chosen, use these tips to guide you toward the right cabinet hardware for your kitchen.
Here are cabinet hardware options to consider for your next project.
Determine If You Want a Knob or Pull
The Spruce / Ana Cadena
There are no strict rules to follow when choosing whether to select a knob or a pull or both .
One preference is to use knobs for all doors and pulls for all drawers. For any large door such as a pantry and any pull-out door (including pull-out base pantries or trash pull-outs), use a pull.
It is much more comfortable to open a drawer using a pull. This allows the whole hand to grab instead of only your fingertips. This is extremely helpful since drawers can get very heavy with all of your pots, pans, dishes, etc.
You can also stick to only knobs or only pulls. The use of all knobs is a fad apparent in many older kitchens before there was a variety of hardware to select from. The use of all pulls is a more contemporary look but is also seen in more traditional kitchens with a more traditional pull style.
When deciding to use all pulls, you must consider how they will be mounted. Use horizontal (contemporary) for drawers and vertical for doors. If you choose the latter, find a pull that is not heavy, as this tends to add weight to a kitchen.
Figure out If You Want Square or Curved
Take note of your cabinet style , countertop edge, lighting fixtures , and any other important design elements. Do they have square or curved lines?
Choose hardware that is consistent with the type of lines in your design.
Examples of square cabinet styles include shaker, flat panel, or any "modified" shaker door with a flatter and squared look. Square style hardware can still be round in shape with square contours. These are more contemporary.
Examples of curved cabinet styles include traditional raised panel doors, pillow-top doors, recessed panel doors with ogee edges, or beads on the inside or outside profiles. Curved style hardware has soft edges and more detail. These are more traditional or transitional.
Consider the Finish
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While most homeowners will choose chrome or brushed nickel, there are numerous other finishes available to add interest to your kitchen. You don't need to match your faucet as long as the finish complements other finishes in the design.
Some finishes go well with brushed nickel or brushed stainless faucet: antique pewter, bronze (light to dark), satin brass (this one can get tricky), oil-rubbed bronze, aluminum, black matte, and rust.
Finishes that go well with a chrome faucet are more limited, such as white, black, dark bronze, pewter, or clear glass.
Think About the Comfort
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Try out the knob or pull before you purchase the entire kitchen.
Touch it, feel it, and fit your hand inside the pull. Does it fit? Does it feel nice? Or does it cram your fingers and feel sharp around the edges? You should be able to fit four comfortably.
When you grab the knob or pull, does it have pointy edges or ridges that press on your fingers? That can get pretty annoying when you use them 1,000 times per day.
Many companies, such as Top Knobs , offer a sample program where they will send you the knob or pull you are interested in, and only pay the shipping. Try out the company. It will be worth the extra research.
Examine the Cost
Keep in mind that you get what you pay for. There are a handful of companies with inexpensive brands and their finishes are also sub-par and look cheap.
Instead of going to the big-box stores, look for hardware through your local plumbing or cabinet showrooms, as they will have a larger variety and salespeople on hand to assist you.
A good price range for knobs is $6 to $10 and for pulls is $7 to $12 and higher. Price is based on finish and design. Solid stainless steel or bronze is going to be much more, though. The longer pulls will also run more in cost since there are more materials used.
Whatever you choose, always order a few extras just in case a screw breaks or the finish starts rubbing off.
Jewelry of the Kitchen
Cabinet hardware is the jewelry of the kitchen, so just like in a wardrobe, it must coordinate, be comfortable, and enhance the design of the outfit. So before you buy, do your research, order samples, and check finishes with your kitchen materials to get the perfect fit.
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A Complete Guide on Proper Cabinet Knob Placement
If you buy something through our posts, we may get a small commission. Read more here .
Installing knobs may seem like a small task, but did you know that one wrong placement can dramatically affect your home’s interior design? No matter how many beautiful cabinets you have, your design style will look unbalanced if you don’t place the hardware correctly.
Luckily, our home improvement experts came up with this guide to save you from costly DIY mishaps.
Importance of Correct Cabinetry Knob Placement
You might be surprised, but updating your cabinet knobs and pulls is a simple tweak that can really modernize your space. If you’re leaning towards a contemporary vibe, take it from me: getting the placement of your cabinet hardware spot-on can dramatically enhance the room’s overall aesthetic. It’s those little details that can elevate your space to something truly special.
You should also remember that once you drill a hole for your cabinet knobs, there’s no turning back the easy way. The chances of ruining your drawer front are very likely as well. The cabinet hardware placement must be properly mapped out, or else your sight will burn with misaligned and crooked-looking cabinet doors.
Different Kinds of Cabinet Knobs and Pulls
There’s no denying that the most common cabinet hardware out there is knobs. Unlike other gears, cabinet knobs are much easier to install. You don’t need many tools for this since they are typically installed with just one screw.
While traditional knobs typically feature circular designs, I’ve watched manufacturers evolve and broaden their offerings to cater to more modern tastes. For those looking to give their upper cabinet doors a distinctive flair, I often suggest exploring cabinet knobs with square or hexagonal shapes. These can add a unique touch that really sets your cabinets apart.
You can also consider installing cabinetry knobs with fancy finishes. When you shop for a cabinet knob, you’ll notice various types sold in the market, from acrylic, leather, metal, and even wood. These options are made depending on your cabinet door aesthetic requirement.
If you’re not keen on the good old cabinet knobs, some cabinet pulls can accommodate your knob placement requirement. While most people install knobs in upper cabinets, tab pulls are designed for base cabinets or the lower drawer panel.
However, there are no same rules that dictate exactly what placement cabinetry hardware should be. If you want a drawer front that pulls vertically, there’s no shame in choosing this gear. One thing you should consider in this knob placement is its variety of options. They come in many types of finishes and sizes, so it’s quite daunting for a DIY newbie to handle.
In my years of woodworking, I’ve learned that the real trick to properly installing cabinet hardware lies in balancing its proportion with the doors or drawers. Below, I’ll guide you through the nuances of handling various cabinet layouts and hardware types, drawing from the collective wisdom of myself and my experienced colleagues.
Cup pulls are the kind of cabinet hardware installed horizontally on lower cabinets. If you look closely, you’ll see the cup pulls are shaped distinctively to accommodate your fingers underneath as you pull the drawers out.
Besides being a popular option for lower cabinets, cup pulls can easily blend with different interior styles. This kind of cabinet hardware is popular to many DIY professionals not only due to its versatility, but it can also add a modern touch in a bathroom or kitchen drawer front.
Unlike a cabinet knob with drilling holes screwed all the way through the door, finger pulls are installed to the top or bottom edge of the cabinets. For this placement, you wouldn’t need to drill screw holes on the face of the cabinet door frame or the drawer.
If cabinetry hardware isn’t your forte, you might come across finger pulls, often edge or tab pulls. Drawing from our collective experience, I find these pulls to be an excellent choice for homeowners striving for a cabinet look that’s both unique and minimalist.
Rails, Stiles, and Panes
Besides the hardware used for your cabinet door and drawer, you also ought to learn that you’ll deal with a certain part of cabinets during the installation. First, the horizontal part on the top and bottom corner pieces of the kitchen cabinet are called rails. Depending on the design, you can also find a door rail in the middle of the cabinet door.
Another important term to remember is the door stile. You’ll find them vertically, enclosing the bottom and top rail pieces. Last but not least, the innermost part of cabinet and drawer fronts is the panels. These parts are considered the centerpiece of the door frame. However, you won’t encounter these said parts in flat-slab cabinets.
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Cabinet Knob Placement for Doors
Considering how versatile this hardware is, a knob placement can be on both doors and drawers. All you need to do is mount the cabinet knob over the stile and place it on the other side of the door hinges .
When it comes to marking the placement for knobs on upper cabinets, I usually recommend measuring about two to three inches up from the bottom corner of the cabinet door. As for base cabinets, you’ll want to measure roughly 2.5 to 3 inches down from the upper corner of the door. This is a technique that’s served me and my fellow DIY experts well over the years.
Cabinet pulls placement and installation during your kitchen cabinet restoration are slightly complicated compared to knobs. Why? Because they’re mainly inserted into the cabinetry using two screws. If one of those fasteners is loose, the cabinetry hardware may wiggle and damage its cabinet construction.
If you don’t want that to happen, I advise doing a test placement before the installation. When drilling a screw, it should be pinned 2.5 to 3 inches above the bottom corner of the door. The same measurements should be applied for the top rail, except the screw must be below it.
For tall wall cabinets, installing cup pulls can be tricky. One of the options I can recommend is putting them in the center to make the overall drawer look balanced. For the other method, you can consider top rail installation for a more distinct design.
The placement for this kind of hardware is similar to how you’d install regular cabinet pulls. They require two screws for fastening, so it’s best to drill them in properly to avoid unintended damage to your cabinetry.
You may not know it, but finger pulls are often placed at the corner of the door if you’re working on upper cabinets. Be mindful of the door hinge as you’ll be needing to install the pull hardware at its opposite side. For the lower cabinets, the finger pulls should be placed on the top corner of the door.
Some of these placements can be a little too typical for a modern home. So if you’re interested in adding some edge on your cabinet designs, I urge you to install finger pulls closely at the door’s top edges to create an optical effect that there’s long hardware connecting the two doors.
Cabinet Knob Placement for Drawers
Unlike the knob placement for upper cabinets, installing cabinetry hardware on drawers can be a bit tricky, especially in sizing considerations. You’ll have no issues when dealing with drawers under 24 inches because all you need to do is to place cabinet knobs in the center panel.
If you’re up for some contemporary touches, you can try positioning the cabinet knob in the upper frame of the drawer vertically.
In my experience, for drawers that exceed 24 inches in width, a single knob just doesn’t quite cut it for a balanced look, which is quite different from installation on a door frame. In situations like these, I often recommend installing two knobs to achieve a more visually appealing and natural aesthetic. These knobs should be positioned evenly on each side portion of the drawer for symmetry.
For a seamless and clean aesthetic, drawers smaller than 24 inches should be installed with pulls in the center of the drawer panel. Like cup pulls, the rule of thumb for drawers wider than the said measure is to include two pulls into the formula.
Truth be told, cup pulls are great cabinet hardware for drawers. Their traditional placement is often in the center panel of the slab doors. However, I don’t recommend cup pulls if your cabinet drawers are wider than typical sizes.
The hardware placement for cup pulls also won’t suit long cabinet width and bin pulls. But if you really need to install it on wide base cabinets, we suggest installing two cup pulls with even allotted space in-between. The two-pulls rule applies for a drawer front sized around 30 inches.
To achieve full functionality of your cabinetry with finger pulls, always go for center placement. This type of design is common, but a classic touch will always serve you well in the long run. Another idea you can try is to fasten them on the top edges. It’s a typically seen design for pulls as well.
Cabinet Knob Placement for Appliances
If you plan to integrate your new appliances into your cabinetry, you’d have to consider the knob placements as well. I don’t recommend using regular hardware for this installation because it’s inevitable that they’re not designed to carry the mass of appliance doors.
When you go shopping for knobs and pulls, you’ll notice that there’s a section dedicated to appliance pulls. Like regular ones, this type of hardware varies depending on the appliances in question. For example, the appliance pull for refrigerators may seem like typical hardware, but they’re obviously sturdier and a lot thicker in construction.
Given the heavier doors on these appliances, I can’t emphasize enough the importance of using sturdier screws of the correct size for a secure installation. This approach isn’t just for fridges but applies to dishwashers as well. Though not as hefty, choosing the right hardware for them is crucial to prevent any potential damage to your cabinetry down the line.
To reduce damages, I suggest choosing the ideal grade for your plywood cabinet .
What is the Best Size for Cabinet Pulls?
The best size for your cabinet pull ultimately depends on how big your cabinetry is. Like any other home improvement construction, small or big, the aesthetic balance is still one of the keys to a great design outcome. If you want to make your cabinetry pleasing to the eyes, I suggest getting pulls that are ⅓ the size of your cabinets.
If you did your calculations and the hardware still seems a bit too large for the cabinet, you can proceed to a lower sizing around ¼ the size of the cabinetry. Keep in mind that it’ll still depend on your measurement and judgment.
Tips and Tricks for a Perfect Cabinet Knob Installation
Before working on any power tool for drilling screws into the cabinet placements, I recommend using safety gears to avoid dangerous mishaps  . Besides that, always consider the size of your cabinetry before selecting any hardware to install. You’ll find that proper measurements and proportions can save you money and time in the long run.
Next, if you’re planning to add more than a single knob, I suggest marking portions into thirds for more accurate placements. For cup pulls, it’s always wise to install them within your natural reach. That way, it wouldn’t appear awkward and feel more comfortable to use.
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Where should pulls be placed on kitchen cabinets?
The pulls should be placed in the stile on the kitchen cabinets. If you’re working on upper cabinetry, the screw hole should be drilled 2.5 inches above the door’s bottom. On the contrary, lower cabinets should have an upper hole vertically aligned and 2.5 inches below the top of the door.
Where do you put knobs on shaker cabinet doors?
Knobs on the shaker cabinet door should be placed on the canter stile. It should be located halfway up the shaker door’s stile. The same requirements apply when you choose to install pulls as well. Place it just two to three inches above or below the corners for easy access and natural reach.
Should kitchen handles be vertical or horizontal?
Kitchen handles should be vertical according to the general rule of thumb. By doing this, the functionality of your cabinet pulls is maximized. It makes cabinet doors open easily as well. Meanwhile, horizontal hardware installations are often used for pull-out drawers as they’re more pleasing to the eyes.
Starting with small steps is the cornerstone of tackling any big project. Now that you’re equipped with the insider knowledge on cabinet knob placement, I strongly encourage you to start gathering everything you’ll need for this endeavor. It might seem daunting initially, but the secret to pulling off a successful cabinet remodel is simply to begin. So don’t hesitate—once you get going, I’m confident you’ll handle it beautifully!
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Moscow-City: 7 surprising facts about the Russian capital’s business center
1. Guinness World Record in highlining
The record was set in 2019 by a team of seven athletes from Russia, Germany, France and Canada. They did it on September 8, on which the ‘Moscow-City Day’ is celebrated. The cord was stretched at the height of 350 m between the ‘OKO’ (“Eye”) and ‘Neva Towers’ skyscrapers. The distance between them is 245 m. The first of the athletes to cross was Friede Kuhne from Germany. The athletes didn't just walk, but also performed some daredevil tricks. Their record is 103 meters higher than the previous one set in Mexico City in December 2016.
2. Domination of Europe's top-10 highest skyscrapers
7 out of 10 Europe’s highest skyscrapers are located in Moscow-City. Earlier, the ‘Federation Tower’ complex’s ‘Vostok’ (“East”) skyscraper was the considered the tallest in Europe.
Left to right: the lower of the ‘Neva Towers’ (296 m), Commerzbank Tower in Frankfurt (300 m), Gorod Stolits (“City of Capitals”) Moscow tower (302 m), Eurasia tower (309 m), The Shard’ skyscraper in London (310 m), Mercury City Tower (339 m), Neva Towers (345 m).
However, in 2018, the construction of the 462 meter tall ‘Lakhta Center’ in Saint-Petersburg was completed, pushing ‘Vostok’ (374 m) into 2nd place. The 3rd place is taken by OKO’s southern tower (354 m).
3. The unrealized ‘Rossiya’ tower
If all the building plans of Moscow-City were realized, the ‘Lakhta Center’ in St. Petersburg wouldn't have a chance to be Europe's highest skyscraper. Boris Tkhor, the architect who designed the concept of Moscow-City, had planned for the ‘Rossiya’ tower to be the tallest. In his project, it was a 600 meter tall golden cylindrical skyscraper ending with a spire that was inspired by traditional Russian bell towers. Then, the project was reinvented by famous British architect Sir Norman Foster. He had designed ‘Rossiya’ as a pyramid ending with a spire. The skyscraper itself would have been 612 meters tall, and the height including the spire would have reached 744,5 meters (for comparison, the ‘Burj Khalifa’ in Dubai, UAE, would have been just 83,5 meters taller). Unfortunately, the investors faced a lot of economic problems, due to the 2008 financial crisis, so the ‘Rossiya’ skyscraper was never built. A shopping mall and the ‘Neva Towers’ complex was constructed at its place in 2019.
4. Changed appearance of ‘Federation Tower’
In its first project, the ‘Federation Tower’ was designed to resemble a ship with a mast and two sails. The mast was to be represented by a tall glass spire with passages between the towers. It was planned to make a high-speed lift in it. The top of the spire was going to be turned into an observation deck. But the ship lost its mast in the middle of its construction. Experts at the Moscow-city Museum based in the ‘Imperia’ (“Empire”) tower say, that the construction of the spire was stopped, firstly, due to fire safety reasons and secondly, because it posed a threat to helicopter flights – the flickering glass of the spire could potentially blind the pilots. So, the half-built construction was disassembled. However, an observation deck was opened in the ‘Vostok’ tower.
5. Open windows of ‘Federation Tower’
We all know that the windows of the upper floors in different buildings don’t usually open. Experts say that it’s not actually for people’s safety. Falling from a big height is likely to be fatal in any building. The actual reason is the ventilation system. In a skyscraper, it’s managed with a mechanical system, and the building has its own climate. But in the ‘Zapad’ (“West”) tower of the ‘Federation Tower’ complex, the windows can open. The 62nd and last floor of the tower are taken up by a restaurant called ‘Sixty’. There, the windows are equipped with a special hydraulic system. They open for a short period of time accompanied by classical music, so the guests can take breathtaking photos of Moscow.
6. Broken glass units of ‘Federation Tower’
The guests of the ‘Sixty’ restaurant at the top of the ‘Zapad’ tower can be surprised to see cracked glass window panes. It is particularly strange, if we take into consideration the special type of this glass. It is extremely solid and can’t be broken once installed. For example, during experiments people threw all sorts of heavy items at the windows, but the glass wouldn’t break. The broken glass units of ‘Zapad’ were already damaged during shipment . As each of them is curved in its own way to make the tower’s curvature smooth, making a new set of window panes and bringing them to Russia was deemed too expensive . Moreover, the investors had financial problems (again, due to the 2008 financial crisis), so the ‘Vostok’ tower even stood unfinished for several years. Eventually, the cracked window panes were installed in their place.
7. The highest restaurant in Europe
‘Birds’, another restaurant in Moscow-City, is remarkable for its location. It was opened at the end of 2019 on the 84th floor of the ‘OKO’ complex’s southern tower. Guests at the restaurant can enjoy an amazing panoramic view at a height of 336 meters. On January 28, the experts of ‘Kniga Recordov Rossii’ (“Russian Records Book”) declared ‘Birds’ the highest restaurant in Europe, a step toward an application for a Guinness World Record.
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Russia mistakenly doxed its own spies and secret bases by uploading their addresses on a public city hall website: investigative outlet
- Russia accidentally exposed the locations of its secret bases and spy homes, per the Dossier Center.
- It included them in a long list of buildings that are supposed to always have power, per the outlet.
- The 434-page list was temporarily uploaded to the Moscow's city hall website, the outlet reported.
Moscow's city hall accidentally leaked the addresses of government safehouses, undercover facilities, and the homes of state operatives, the Dossier Center reported on Monday.
A 434-page list containing the addresses was uploaded on the city hall website. It appeared to be a guide for local electricity suppliers, wrote the investigative outlet, which was founded by the Russian opposition politician and activist Mikhail Khodorkovsky.
The document, titled "Special Group," earmarked specific buildings that authorities wanted to stay connected to in the event of blackouts or power shortages, reported the Dossier Center.
When Insider checked the Moscow city hall website on Monday, the document was no longer available online .
Several officials signed the document, including Moscow's mayor, Sergey Sobyanin, the Dossier Center reported.
While most of the list covered the addresses of public institutions like metro stations, police headquarters, and hospitals, it also pinpointed secret locations like an ammunition depot in Leningrad and undercover facilities run by the Federal Protective Service, according to the Dossier Center.
In one case, the document even included the apartment numbers of two homes used by spies in Moscow, the Dossier Center reported.
A list of residential addresses also revealed at least six apartment buildings in Moscow that contain homes sold or given to intelligence officers in the Foreign Intelligence Service, Russia's top external intelligence agency, per the outlet.
About 10 other entries in the document listed buildings in Moscow used by agents of the Federal Security Service, Russia's internal security and counterintelligence agency, per the Dossier Center.
Further entries also revealed dozens of undercover offices and facilities used by the Federal Protective Service, which is responsible for guarding Russia's top leaders, and the Federal Security Service, the outlet wrote.
Many of these locations have already been identified as Russian intelligence facilities by investigative outlets such as Bellingcat , the Dossier Center noted.
Facilities and safe houses in the Primorsky, Leningrad, St. Petersburg, and Bryansk regions were also on the list, the Dossier Center wrote, showing screenshots of the document.
A spokesperson for the Kremlin did not immediately respond to a request for comment sent outside regular business hours.
Watch: Female spy ring working for Russia busted in Ukraine
Mastering MONTAGE 8: Assignable Knobs
Performance 9: assignable knobs.
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VIP 3.0 UPGRADE READY (OPTIONAL)
As featured on our VX49 premium production controller VIP is now available for all our popular keyboards. Experience expanded control of your VST instrument and effect collection with VIP 3.0 (a $99.99 Value) for just $29.99. VIP3.0 provides you with unparalleled access to your virtual instrument and effect collection, seamlessly integrating the hardware / software experience and grants the unrestricted freedom to create in a user-friendly, intuitive format.
The combination of VIP and your Alesis Controller maximizes workflow and ensures a playing experience that feels natural and enhances creativity – the natural, tactile feel of hardware fused with the unrivalled processing capability of virtual Instruments. Quickly find sounds based on instrument type, timbre, style or articulation from your entire VST library; sculpt immersive, expressive sounds and textures layering up to 8 separate instruments and patches per VIP instance; load up to 4 different VST effects per instrument channel to sculpt the perfect sound; put power into your performance with Pad Chord Progressions and user-friendly Key Control processors; and much more.
From live performance to studio production, VIP’s user-friendly functionality coupled with a diverse feature set guarantees simple, seamless integration into your existing setup and provides the ultimate platform for unrestricted creative expression.
- 61 full-sized, square-front keys
- 8 velocity- and pressure-sensitive backlit pads for beat production and clip launching
- 4 assignable knobs and 4 assignable buttons interface with your music software
- Octave Up and Down buttons let you access the full keyboard range
- Pitch and modulation wheels deliver expressive, creative control
- Seamless, visual feedback via illuminated buttons and knobs
- USB power and USB-MIDI connectivity for Mac and PC
- Production software included: Ableton Live Lite 9 and Xpand!2 by AIR Music Tech (downloads)
- V61 USB-MIDI Controller
- Ableton Live Lite (Download)
- Xpand!2 by AIR Music Tech (Download)
- Safety & Warranty Manual
- Available USB Port
- Windows: 7 (32 or 64 bit)
- OS X: 10.11
- For Software Requirements: Visit Alesis.com
Updates & Drivers
V61 editor for mac, v61 firmware updater for mac, v61 editor for windows, v61 firmware updater for windows, docs and downloads.
- V61 - User Guide - v1.2 Open
- Print Images (CMYK) Download
- Web Images (RGB) Download